Por Christian Camilo Galenao (Tomado de Razón Pública)
Tu codiciado oro
Es fuente de
Riqueza de los extraños
Y causa de la
Miseria de los tuyos
¡Saludo minero marmateño!
1980.
Placa en la plaza principal Marmato
Marmato
La carretera que conduce al viejo Marmato está despavimentada. Al pasar, se forman nubes de polvo y en polvo también están convirtiéndose los habitantes del pueblo minero. Al subir por la cordillera que conduce hacia el cerro El Burro, se observan varias quebradas oscurecidas por los venenos vertidos para obtener el oro.
En Marmato, la minería formó a un pueblo con sus propios mitos y costumbres alrededor del metal precioso: las brujas, los espantos y los hechizos van de la mano con los hábitos de los mineros y su trabajo: “No vaya a recibirle agua a ninguna mujer, porque queda embrujado y de allá no vuelve”, expresó un vendedor de dulces de Manizales al enterarse de que íbamos al encuentro anual de marmatólogos.
Las edificaciones de colores opacos del viejo Marmato están agrietadas, como un pesebre deteriorado que fue testigo de muchas navidades mineras. Un arriero sin brazos conduce una caravana de mulas cargadas con maderos y se dirige a uno de los socavones en lo alto del cerro. Los rumores indican que perdió sus brazos en una borrachera.
Los hombres conversan mientras beben unas cervezas. No se sorprenden ni se asombran por la destreza del arriero que carga las mulas con los maderos o por la tranquilidad con la que las dirige por un territorio que se desmorona.
Pero sí los cautiva su capacidad de embriagarse en cada fiesta: el licor disuelve su cuerpo y borra su conciencia; deja de ser un arriero, un hombre con un pasado y un cuerpo mutilado, para seguir con la tradición minera de reafirmar el instante.
A las diez de la noche se ven pocas personas en las calles. Algunas deambulan de un lado a otro, se escabullen entre las sombras y caminan despacio cubiertas en polvo como almas en pena.
La nueva ciudad
Desde uno de los extremos de la plaza se observa el nuevo Marmato, más iluminado y convulso. Esta ciudadela es la promesa de una multinacional minera que pretende trasladar a los habitantes del pueblo para explotar El Burro a cielo abierto, amenazando con desaparecer la tradición minera.
Muchos mineros artesanales se resisten a entregar sus minas y convertirse en obreros de la multinacional, por eso deciden habitar el viejo Marmato para ganarse la vida en un pueblo que parece una nebulosa de polvo y luces.
Los destellos de neón provienen de algunas cantinas y bares donde la música suena. Los hombres que caminan por allí se detienen, beben y siguen bebiendo. Los mineros trabajan arduamente, pasan horas en la mina, la conocen, se ganan la vida y, en ocasiones, la pierden. Cuando les pagan por las horas en el interior de los socavones, se alegran y quieren sentir el mundo.
Por eso, la vida que estuvo en juego durante horas debe consumirse en una noche de copas. En muchas ocasiones, el dinero se va en las cantinas o en los prostíbulos.
El oro simboliza lo superior y lo divino, un tesoro difícil de encontrar que le da sentido a las jornadas extenuantes dentro de una mina, la convivencia con el mercurio, la falta de aire, la oscuridad y el calor.
Allí el cuerpo es una herramienta más que se sobreexplota para alcanzar el eterno sueño de los conquistadores de este continente: El Dorado. Pero como en todo sueño, los objetos desaparecen en un instante: el oro y el dinero se esfuman de las manos y únicamente queda el polvo.
Como decía Novalis, “el oficio del minero tiene que ser forzosamente un oficio bendecido por Dios (…) El minero nace pobre y muere pobre. Solo aspira a una cosa: saber dónde se encuentra el imperio del metal para sacarlo a la luz del día. Con ello se contenta: el brillo cegador de los metales no puede nada contra la pureza de su corazón (…) Todos los días sale de las oscuras cavernas de su oficio con renovada alegría de vivir: él sí que sabe lo que es el encanto de la luz y del reposo, la caricia de un aire libre y de un horizonte amplio…”.
Los habitantes y la minería
Después de una noche de música en las cantinas y bares en Marmato, todos duermen, incluso las máquinas que devoran las rocas de la montaña, y el silencio llena a la ciudad.
Luis González, músico del pueblo, habla de cómo el oro atraviesa la vida de las personas: sus costumbres, sus vicios, el sexo… Las personas se aferran a un socavón por los destellos del metal precioso. “Siempre ha habido mucha prostitución en Marmato, hoy no es la diferencia, han llegado mujeres de muchas partes, incluso desde Venezuela llegan a trabajar aquí”. Relata mientras pasamos las ruinas de uno de los burdeles más icónicos del pueblo, El Retén. Al pasar por allí, es imposible no fantasear con los amores de una noche, las peleas, las promesas de amor eterno y los muertos que de allí salieron.
El viento levanta el polvo de las calles. Mientras don Luis recuerda dónde quedaba la antigua estación de policía, se ve por las ventanas un escritorio olvidado, al igual que las casas donde alguna vez vivió y de las cuales quedan apenas marcos rotos, chapas frágiles y ventanas sin vidrios.
En algunas casas todavía viven algunas personas: mineros y familias que se aferran al cerro como un hijo que no quiere desprenderse de su madre.
Con una mueca que rompe la uniformidad de su rostro, emerge Gildardo de una de las pocas tiendas en el lugar. En el fondo de su sonrisa brilla el deseo de unirse a la caminata con alguna historia. “La mina en la que trabajo es de mi familia, no la hemos querido vender a esa multinacional, como si han hecho muchos y a los meses se quedan sin dinero y sin nada. Usted los viera, vuelven a trabajar en las minas de otros, a ganar menos, mientras se lamentan por lo que antes tenían; ¡yo no!, ahí está nuestra mina”.
“Además el oro tiene su tiempo y los mineros deben evitar impacientarse cuando se busca el metal; la paciencia debe guiar esta labor. No es cuando uno quiera que encuentra una veta de oro, es cuando la montaña lo considere, ahí adentro se aprende a esperar porque hay días en que no aparece nada y luego, cuando el calor es insoportable, un brillo en la roca”.
Ni don Luis ni Gildardo pueden dejar de sonreír mientras hablan de las historias que han visto, oído o vivido en Marmato.
“Por eso no hay que afanarse en esta vida, todo llega a su tiempo, como el oro, él sabe cuándo llegar y cuándo irse. Esta montaña le enseña a uno hasta a caminar, porque en cualquier momento se puede desprender una roca y las personas deben estar atentas, si bien la roca no se controla, se puede enfrentar. Hay que esperar el momento indicado y evitarla, no huir”.
Dentro de la mina todos son una familia. Allí se respira camaradería, condición necesaria para encontrar el oro y evitar toparse con la muerte en un derrumbe. Cada hombre cumple una función: sacar el material, perforar o asegurar la mina, encontrar una veta de oro; siempre con la seguridad de que el otro es más que un compañero, es un compadre.
Mientras descendemos, el polvo se levanta una y otra vez en el lugar, recordando que es la máxima expresión de la destrucción de un mineral y algunos lo ven como un símbolo negativo asociado con la muerte.
Don Luis reitera que son muchos los que quieren acabar con Marmato, acabarlo para quedarse con El Burro y sacar a todos. «Yo por eso digo, en una de mis canciones que “Marmato no se va acabar”, pero la gente es tan sorda que piensan que digo lo contrario», se ajusta la guitarra y seguimos el trayecto.
Al llegar a la plaza se confirma, con la placa que conmemora la vida del minero marmateño, que de las promesas del oro únicamente queda el polvo sobre los cuerpos.
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