LA GUERRA DESARMADA

Actualidad Cultura

Por Martín Caparrós (Tomado de El New York Time)

Hay armas. En la vida colombiana hay armas: policías muy pertrechados en las calles, custodios en edificios públicos y privados, retenes del ejército cada pocos kilómetros de ruta. Hay armas: por todas partes hay armas salvo aquí.

—¿Qué va a ser de nosotros, ahora, sin las armas? Yo no sé. ¿Usted sabe?

Aquí, en el departamento del Cauca, suroeste del país, entre montañas verdes, yace una de las 26 zonas en las que siete mil excombatientes de las FARC avanzan hacia la vida civil a paso casi vivo. Aquí, como en cada campamento, los ex acaban de completar la entrega de sus armas a la ONU: miles de fusiles, pistolas, granadas, morteros y minas que un día serán metal fundido, monumentos. Y ahora los ex se sienten raros, no se hallan.

—Para muchos de nosotros el arma era como la esposa. Yo conozco a varios que lloraron cuando tuvieron que entregarla.

Dice Daniel, y se ríe. Daniel es un Tintín moreno: bajo, robusto, cara ancha, la mirada sonriente. Daniel —por su seguridad, en esta historia no habrá apellidos— se fue a la guerrilla a sus 16: tenía una novia, problemas con el padre de la novia, un hermano guerrillero y prefirió ese escape. Fue hace casi dos décadas: en ese tiempo peleó muchos combates, caminó muchas selvas, esquivó muchas bombas; le sacaron una bala de la espalda y le dejaron una en el brazo derecho. En ese tiempo su hermano murió en combate, su novia en una emboscada, tantos amigos y compañeros en encuentros, ataques, delaciones.

—Lo que te da fuerza es cuando ves que al lado mataron a tu compañero. Ahí se te calienta la sangre, quieres salir y echarles bala a todos, no te importa más nada.

Dice, suave, como si hablara desde lejos.

—¿Qué extrañas de esos años?

—Nada. La guerra es pura mierda, nada para extrañar. A estas horas, cuando estábamos allá, era la hora en que empezaban a caer las bombas.

—¿Y ahora en cambio duermes tranquilo?

—No. El que estuvo en una guerra nunca va a dormir tranquilo. Y si sigues teniendo un enemigo, menos.

Son las cinco menos diez; en la noche cerrada suenan pitos. Intentan despertarnos: los últimos remolones se levantan, corren para empezar el día. Los pitos siguen y los ladridos y alguna radio con reguetón o vallenato. Dan las cinco: en un playón de cemento con su techo de lata, al lado de la cocina grande y casi vacía, 25 hombres y 5 mujeres se forman en tres filas. Los exguerrilleros ya no usan uniformes; ahora llevan bluyín o chandal, botas de goma, camisetas de colores y un abrigo: hace fresco, a estas horas. Daniel, al frente, les reparte las tareas del día. Ninguno de los formados tiene más de 30 años y casi todos son bajos y cobrizos: indígenas nasa, los más nutridos en el sur de Colombia. Los rondan siete u ocho perros, tres o cuatro niños. Por todos lados, aquí, hay niños, perros, moscas.

—¡Escuadra, retirarse!

Grita Daniel y todos se dispersan. Le pregunto para qué forman.

—Todo ejército tiene que tener sus normas y su disciplina.

Me dice, y que el que no se presenta recibe su sanción: lo ponen a lavar las ollas o a limpiar los baños o esas cosas.

—Pero ustedes ya no son un ejército.

—Lo que no somos es armados, pero tenemos que mantener el mismo orden. Como un ejército pero sin las armas.

El presidente colombiano Juan Manuel Santos, el representante de la ONU para el proceso de paz colombiano, Jean Arnault, y el comandante de las Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (Farc) Rodrigo Londoño, durante un acto por la finalización del proceso de desarme en Buenavista, Colombia, el 27 de junio de 2017CreditFernando Vergara/Associated Press
El presidente colombiano Juan Manuel Santos, el representante de la ONU para el proceso de paz colombiano, Jean Arnault, y el comandante de las Fuerzas Armadas Revolucionarias de Colombia (Farc) Rodrigo Londoño, durante un acto por la finalización del proceso de desarme en Buenavista, Colombia, el 27 de junio de 2017CreditFernando Vergara/Associated Press

Al lado, en la cocina, hay una gran cacerola con café dulzón y el hombre y la mujer que preparan el rancho discuten quién de los dos quemó el arroz del desayuno. Los ex se van sirviendo, charlan, se sacan las lagañas; dos hombres organizan una guardia. Otros debaten sus futuros:

—¿Y si este Santos se arrepiente de la paz?

—No puede, camarada. ¿No ve que a él ya le dieron el premio ese, el Gallardete de la Paz?

Uno comenta que anoche se escucharon hartos tiros por allá, del lado de Caldono; otros dos le contestan que no, cómo va a ser, y él les cuenta los ruidos de las balas con lujo de detalles.

—Trazadoras, se veía que eran.

—No, no puede ser. ¿Está seguro?

Se preocupan: sin armas, se sienten vulnerables.

—Quién sabe si nos encampamentaron para tirarnos unas bombas y matarnos a todos.

Les pregunto si tienen miedo y uno, la gorra sobre los ojos, la nariz aguileña, me dice que claro que tiene:

—El Estado es traidor, siempre fue traidor. Espero que los comandantes no se hayan equivocado con esto de creerles.

—Lo mejor de la paz es haber detenido la matanza: siempre mueren los pobres. ¿O usted vio que muchos ricos se murieran en la guerra? Los soldados, nosotros, los campesinos, somos todos pobres. Pero si la guerra costó muchos muertos, la paz también está costando. Han matado gente de nosotros, líderes sociales: la paz ya nos ha costado casi cien muertos en lo que va del año.

Dirá, más tarde, Níder, el encargado de la reinserción económica de sus compañeros. Hablaba de los militantes asesinados en estos meses; se supone que no los mata el Estado sino la iniciativa individual: caciques o terratenientes vengativos, inquietos, previsores.

—Un sicario cuesta un millón de pesos, es demasiado barato, demasiado fácil.

Me había dicho un periodista bogotano: un millón de pesos son menos de 350 dólares. Y Mireya, una de las delegadas ante el Mecanismo de Paz en la región, me dirá que está preocupada:

—Sí, estoy, porque nosotros ya les entregamos lo que ellos más querían, que eran las armas, y ellos todavía no han organizado las garantías de seguridad para nosotros. Los paramilitares y las bandas criminales siguen ahí, y no está claro de qué manera el Estado se va a hacer cargo de esos territorios que nosotros abandonamos, para darles seguridad no solo personal sino también social: carreteras, escuelas, puestos médicos.

La amenaza se completa con las elecciones de 2018: el uribismo podría recuperar la presidencia y ya dijo que pretende deshacer los acuerdos. “El primer desafío del Centro Democrático será el de volver trizas ese maldito papel que llaman el Acuerdo Final con las FARC”, dijo hace unos días su presidente vitalicio, Fernando Londoño, un exministro de Uribe condenado dos veces por corrupción.

—Si el próximo año sube la ultraderecha uribista el acuerdo no sobreviviría. Y ahí nuestras vidas correrían muchos riesgos y seguiría la violencia, se volvería al conflicto. Y si no somos nosotros, serán otros los que tomen las armas… y a nosotros mismos se nos volvería muy complicado hacer política sin las armas, solo con la palabra.

Dirá Marcela, la responsable política de este campamento. Mientras, la amnistía que el acuerdo prevé para los guerrilleros encarcelados no se está cumpliendo: solo fue liberada la mitad de los 2500 previstos, y hay centenares de presos en huelga de hambre. Las cárceles están a punto de explotar.

Vista general de una de las zonas veredales transitorias de normalización en Buenavista, Meta, Colombia, el 27 de junio de 2017 CreditMauricio Dueñas Castañeda/European Pressphoto Agency
Vista general de una de las zonas veredales transitorias de normalización en Buenavista, Meta, Colombia, el 27 de junio de 2017 CreditMauricio Dueñas Castañeda/European Pressphoto Agency

La palabra campamento suena bucólica, silvestre. Pero la Zona Veredal Transitoria de Los Monos está compuesta por varias filas de barracas cuadradas cuarteleras de techos de plástico y paredes de cartón, algunas terminadas, otras no, en la ladera de una colina entre montañas. El Estado había prometido construirlas; no lo hacía y todo se iba retrasando, así que los guerrilleros decidieron levantarlas con los materiales que el gobierno les manda. Cada barraca está dividida en cuatro cuartos independientes: el suelo de cemento, una cama y su mosquitero verde, un armario de lata, una silla de plástico blanco, alguna tela en la ventana para hacer cortina. Cada cuarto está cerrado con su llave: será que no confían.

—Aquí estamos, esperando.

Dirá Xiomara, la dueña de Luna, la perra más temida, una rotweiler.

—Antes la vida era que llegábamos a un campamento y había que hacer la rancha, el bañadero, y después ir a estudiar y después volver a salir, ir a pelear, marchar para acá, para allá, pasar cordilleras. Era duro pero siempre estábamos haciendo algo. Ahora estamos quietos, esperando.

En la tradición católica, el Purgatorio es un espacio donde los muertos esperan que se laven sus pecados para llegar al cielo. Aquí, ahora, unos 200 exguerrilleros llevan meses de espera.

—Si ya no son guerrilleros, ¿qué son?

—Militantes, como siempre, revolucionarios.

El desayuno es a las seis: docenas que empuñan sus ollitas para que les sirvan el arroz con huevos y aguacate que —bajo diversas formas de los huevos— se repite incesante. Aquí se comen cuatro o cinco huevos por día en promedio: la paz también tiene peligros. A mi lado un muchacho fornido revolea una bebé, la besa, le dice sus cositas. Por hablar, le pregunto cuántos meses tiene.

—No sé, no es mía.

Se calcula que, desde que empezó el proceso, nacieron unos 300 bebés farianos, y muchos padres que habían dejado a sus hijos con parientes o amigos los buscaron tras años de distancia. Los perros, en cambio, llegan solos: los convocan las pilas de basura que producen el arroz y los huevos.

—¿Y usted qué va a hacer con esto de la paz?

—Lo que el partido ordene, camarada.

Aquí todos se dicen camarada, nadie fuma, nadie bebe, nadie usa plata y todos hablan mucho de las normas y de las órdenes y de la obediencia, y se pasan los días haciendo trabajos de construcción, esperando. Aquí había, al principio, 438 exguerrilleros y milicianos de la Columna Móvil Jacobo Arenas, una de las más temidas de las Farc. Pero más de la mitad no está: algunos guerrilleros se han ido a Bogotá a hacer un curso para convertirse en guardaespaldas, una salida posible. Y los milicianos, que, a diferencia de los guerrilleros, seguían en sus casas y militaban clandestinos, tuvieron que hacerse cargo de sus familias y están trabajando en la cosecha de café o lo que encuentren. Ya volverán, me dicen: que ahora están de permiso pero vuelven.

Algunos me cuentan sus historias: son personas con historias muy duras que convivieron años con otras personas con historias muy duras. Personas que quizá, por eso, no perciben que sus historias son tan duras.

—Sí, al principio fue muy difícil. Pero si me quedaba en mi casa me mataban. A mí irme a la selva me salvó.

Tatiana es bajita, menuda, de la etnia nasa, con la sonrisa triste, usa los aros con la cara de Guevara. Su familia era muy pobre, rancho de barro y paja y una tierrita y unas pocas gallinas en los montes del Cauca, y muchos de ellos colaboraban con las Farc. El ejército y los paramilitares los hostigaban; ella creció entre muertes y terrores. Fue casi natural que, a sus 16, decidiera irse con la guerrilla: así, quizá, podría sobrevivir y por lo menos pelearía por los suyos. Al principio fue duro: la disciplina era muy rígida, los ejercicios la agotaban, y las marchas, escapes, escondites, tantas noches.

—Lo que más me desesperaba, al principio, era que casi siempre estaba oscuro.

Tatiana habla bajito, triste, y ahora dice que su fusil era su vida, que lo cuidaba como una porcelana, pero que la mejor herramienta es su ideología, sus ganas de seguir peleando por las mismas cosas aunque sea sin las armas. Tatiana juega con su hija de 10 años. La nena nació en la cárcel y todavía no lo sabe: hubo un día, año 2007, en que Tatiana, embarazada, marchaba con otros veinte guerrilleros por un monte y cayó en una emboscada. Le metieron una bala en la barriga pero sobrevivió; después sabría que el padre de su hija, que marchaba con ella, había muerto esa tarde. Tatiana estuvo presa cinco años: nada en su vida le dolió tanto.

—Yo lo que más extraño son aquellos encuentros que se hacían en la selva, cuando toda la columna nos juntábamos para celebrar las fiestas de diciembre.

Dice, y cuánto se alegraban de verse vivos y comían y bebían y bailaban y se contaban las noticias: cuando eran una gran familia. Cuando la guerra era la regla y todos sabían cómo era.

La paz es rara. Muchos creyeron, durante años, que si llegaba volverían a sus lugares, sus familias; muchos están descubriendo que no tienen.

Jerson no va a volver a su pueblo aquí tan cerca porque sus jefes indígenas lo mandaron a la cárcel por haberse acercado a las Farc y hostigaron tanto a su familia que ellos, para sobrevivir, lo abandonaron, y su mujer “se consiguió otro y ya, para que no la molestaran tanto”. Marcela no va a volver porque sus padres ya murieron y tiene miedo de que si va a su casa de los Llanos los paramilitares maten a sus hermanas. Mireya no quiere ir porque, por su cargo en el Mecanismo, siempre la siguen cuatro policías y no quiere llevarlos a su sitio. Daniel, en cambio, sí se va al Meta pronto a visitar a su familia, quince días pero vuelve, dice, y que lleva muchos años sin verlos, ya ni sabe cuántos, ni hablarles por teléfono porque allá no hay teléfonos, y que no sabe qué se va a encontrar y que ellos tampoco saben que él va a ir y le pregunto si no está nervioso.

—Sí, claro que estoy nervioso.

—¿Qué le da más nervios, esto o un combate?

—No joda, hombre.

Dice, y se ríe de verdad. Mireya, en cambio, se preocupa por las deserciones:

—Para algunos muchachos fue que entrego el fusil y me voy pa mi casa, porque qué más estoy haciendo acá.

Un miembro de las Farc se prepara para su cambio de guardia en la zona veredal de normalización Jaime Pardo Leal en Colinas, en Guaviare, Colombia, el 14 de junio de 2017, unos días antes de la entrega total de las armas. CreditRaúl Arboleda/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
Un miembro de las Farc se prepara para su cambio de guardia en la zona veredal de normalización Jaime Pardo Leal en Colinas, en Guaviare, Colombia, el 14 de junio de 2017, unos días antes de la entrega total de las armas. CreditRaúl Arboleda/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

—¿Se les ha ido mucha gente?

—Sí, ya hubo gente que dijo que se iba. Nosotros tenemos gente entrenada en la guerra, que sabe manejar muy bien las armas, y hay muchos interesados, narcotraficantes, criminales, que les están haciendo llamados con muchísimo dinero para que trabajen para ellos, y ya hay algunos que se fueron con ellos.

También hubo farianos que no aceptaron la paz y se integraron a otras guerrillas, como el ELN. Y planea sobre el campamento la historia del comandante Pija, uno de los jefes de la columna, que se llevó dinero y hombres y se compró una finca.

—¿Y ustedes pueden hacer algo?

—Hablarles sinceramente, decirles a los muchachos que si hacen cualquiera de esas cosas nosotros no vamos a ayudarlos. Nosotros siempre hemos sido muy sinceros con ellos.

—¿Les preocupa no haberles dado más “solidez ideológica” para que no hagan esas cosas?

—Es que es muy complicado, en esta región no hay desarrollo, nada de qué vivir, y es gente que no ha tenido acceso a estudios. Ellos llegaron a la guerrilla a cambiar su forma de vida, a tener una forma de vida, al menos para comer. Y estuvieron con nosotros, pelearon una guerra, fueron muy buenos para eso. Pero ahora que eso se termina…

Cuando la guerra era la regla, la muerte estaba cerca todo el tiempo. Por momentos lo olvido, pero muchos de estos hombres y mujeres han matado. Hay, hoy, pocos clubes tan exclusivos como ese: en nuestro mundo casi nadie mata.

—¿Cómo es matar a alguien?

Le preguntaré, después, cuando junte coraje, a Diego, a cargo de la entrega de las armas de este campamento. Diego es bajito, los ojos huidos, la sonrisa tímida, una gorra con ribetes dorados y zapatillas nuevas. Diego llegó a mandar a muchos hombres. En 2011 una patrulla del ejército sorprendió a la suya descansando y les metió bala: dos murieron, Diego quedó herido en un pulmón, muy grave; los soldados lo levantaron y lo llevaron al hospital de Popayán.

—En muchos lugares, cuando un enemigo está malherido no lo curan. Y este es un ejército que mató a cientos de inocentes. ¿Por qué crees que a ti no te mataron?

—No sé, a mí también me sorprendió. Yo pensé que me iban a rematar y en cambio me metieron en un helicóptero y me llevaron. No sé, la guerra la hacen seres humanos, también del otro lado hay gente buena, gente pobre. O quizás fuera para tratar de sacarme información, quién sabe.

Me dirá; e intentaré de nuevo mi pregunta: ¿qué se siente cuando se mata a un hombre?

—Nada, no lo sabes. En un combate no te das cuenta quién mata a quién, nadie sabe, es todo un lío. No es que uno mata; uno dispara, nada más, y quién sabe qué pasa.

Me dirá, como quien dice: “Qué te importa”.

El almuerzo es a las once y media: arroz con fideos cortos, aguacate, yuca, huevos. Los ex se acercan en grupitos, llenan sus cazos, se conversan, las voces bajas, la expresión cansina. Llevan años en una organización que se ocupaba de sus necesidades; ahora no saben cómo van a conseguir sus cosas. Tampoco saben qué va a ser de ellos.

—Antes vivíamos mejor porque la organización y la dirigencia respondían por los derechos de todos. Nos daban la ropa, la comida, la salud, nos garantizaban todo. Ahora tenemos que ser ciudadanos comunes y corrientes, pasar todas las necesidades que pasa la gente y ganar nuestro dinero, sostener a nuestras familias.

Me dirá Marcela, y que la disciplina era férrea pero vivían mejor:

–Uno vivía más sano allá en la selva, más flaco, más capaz, con todo ese entrenamiento y esos esfuerzos que uno hacía. Estaba mejor, física y mentalmente. Ahora no entrenamos, no caminamos, no hacemos más nada.

Dice, y que con esto de la paz ya aumentó casi diez kilos. Mireya extraña cierta forma de la seguridad:

—Vivíamos muy seguros, sin robos, sin crímenes… Lo que más extraño es estar juntos, unidos, que lo bueno y lo malo nos pasaba a todos en comunidad, que ese círculo cerrado que teníamos no estaba permeado por vicios, por problemas.

Integrantes de las Farc caminan en una de las zonas veredales de normalización en Jaime Pardo Leal en Colinas, Gaviare, el 15 de junio de 2017. CreditRaúl Arboleda/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
Integrantes de las Farc caminan en una de las zonas veredales de normalización en Jaime Pardo Leal en Colinas, Gaviare, el 15 de junio de 2017. CreditRaúl Arboleda/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Los guerrilleros se acostumbraron a pensar en las Farc como su espacio y su familia, y ya no es: se les ve desorientados. La mayoría tiene poca instrucción y muy poca experiencia en la vida civil. Se enrolaron jóvenes, no han sido adultos en esa sociedad a la que ahora quieren integrarse para cambiarla todo lo posible. Se sienten inseguros. Saben que hay muchas cosas que no saben, y saben muchas cosas que ya no les sirven: conocen los montes como nadie, sus plantas, animales; saben luchar, obedecer, vivir a saltos, cocinar para cientos. No saben ganarse la vida, vivir en sociedad abierta, aceptar sus dudas.

—Es necesario conseguir que aumenten su iniciativa individual. Están acostumbrados a cumplir órdenes, los entrenaron durante años y años para cumplir órdenes.

Me dirá Pedro, un “militante internacionalista” que ha venido a conducir un seminario para ayudarlos en esa transición.

—Eso podía estar bien para la etapa político-militar, pero para la etapa político-civil se necesitan militantes capaces de buscarse la vida, de generar política.

Han vivido sus vidas enganchados a un futuro común; ahora, sin perderlo de vista, deben pensar en futuros personales.

—Vamos a tener que acostumbrarnos a que ya no hay órdenes como en la guerra, que ya no hay comandantes sino jefes políticos. No sé cómo será que va a ser eso.

Me dirá Daniel, y que él querría ser artista: cantor de vallenatos, pero vaya a saber; quizá termine siendo guardaespaldas. Gustavo tampoco sabe qué va a hacer pero parece tener menos problemas. Gustavo es comandante y tiene unos 50 años, más de 30 en las Farc, sus botas nuevas, sus pantalones de fajina, su pancita. Gustavo tiene una casa, una de las primeras al entrar al campamento, toda para él, y se ha armado su salón, su dormitorio, su cocina. También tiene DirecTV, la nevera con freezer, galletas y bebidas, paquetes de refrescos, cama de matrimonio, cortinas rojas, dos perros pekineses, dos muchachas que ya mataron dos gallinas y ahora preparan el sancocho. Le pregunto si piensa quedarse aquí por mucho tiempo.

—No sé, lo que diga el partido. Ahora no somos un ejército, somos un partido, pero igual tenemos que obedecer las órdenes.

Dice, cortante, y mira la hora en su Rolex fondo azul. Yo intento preguntarle más, y me dice que más tarde podemos hacer una buena entrevista.

—¿Cuándo?

—Más tarde, yo le mando avisar.

Me dice, y que Bruno, el pekinés más grande, lo tiene preocupado porque últimamente se le cae el pelo, que tiene que llevarlo a que lo vean. La paz, sin duda, es rara.

En la paz hay noches que Xiomara no consigue dormir: estar entre paredes la confunde. Cuando la guerra era la regla, sí que podía dormir la noche antes de un combate:

—Ir al combate no es tan duro, porque uno ya tiene la preparación psicológica, ya está acostumbrado. Lo que sí le da es ese temor de ver a su compañero morir, eso es duro, habíamos salido todos juntos y pensábamos regresar todos juntos…

—¿Y no te daba miedo que te mataran?

—A veces sí. Pero cuando uno va al combate no le da tanto miedo; lo que da más miedo es cuando lo cogen de sorpresa, una emboscada, un bombardeo. Ahí sí da miedo, cuando vienen esos helicópteros volando bajito y uno alcanza a ver al que ametralla ahí sentado y le tira esas ráfagas de 0,50 que si lo agarra lo destroza y uno piensa bueno hasta aquí llegó mi vida… Es como en las películas. A mí algún día me gustaría hacer una película de toda la vida guerrillera. Es un sueño que tengo, un anhelo.

—Y cuando ves una película de guerra, ¿se parece a lo que es estar en una guerra de verdad?

—Sí, se parece. Algunas, por ejemplo, de la guerra ahí en Vietnam se le parecen mucho.

Dice Xiomara, y se le pone soñadora la carita redonda, tan serena, tan de niña de cuento, cuando cuenta cuánto le gustaba el AK-47 con cinco cargadores que tuvo que entregar a esos tipos de la ONU.

—Es el arma mejor, la que más me ha gustado en mi vida.

Xiomara tiene 28 años y lleva 12 en la guerrilla y nunca, en todos ese tiempo, vio a sus padres: conseguía llamarlos cada uno o dos años, dice, para decirles que estaba bien, que estaba viva.

—Y ellos me agradecían, me decían muchas gracias por decirnos que estás viva.

Dice, y que lo que más odiaba era que les dijeran terroristas:

—Un terrorista es lo peor de este mundo, alguien que está siempre infundiendo el miedo. Si nosotros fuéramos así no habríamos tenido la ayuda que nos dieron tantas veces, la gente que nos colaboraba con comida, cobijo, informaciones que nos daban o que le negaban al ejército. Sin eso, imagínate, no habríamos durado todos estos años. Y eso a unos terroristas no se lo iban a dar.

Ahora Xiomara tiene a su perra y unos pendientes de brillitos azules, su camiseta negra con un escudo de las Farc, sus botas negras. Xiomara está recuperando lo que le faltó del bachillerato y va a estudiar Administración de Empresas “porque la organización lo necesita”.

—¿No es una carrera muy capitalista?

—Si yo fuera de clase alta la haría para enriquecerme más todavía; en cambio, la voy a hacer para ayudar a los que menos tienen a administrar mejor sus cosas. Y al partido, por supuesto.

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A veces, Xiomara se imagina lo que habría sido su vida si no se hubiera ido a la guerrilla, y no le gusta. Tendría un marido, dos o tres hijos, mucho trabajo para criarlos. Y no habría podido hacer más nada, dice.

—Ahora en cambio he aprendido tanto, he vivido tantas cosas, he tenido una vida tan rica. Una mujer no tiene por qué ser ama de casa como nos enseñaron.

Dice, y Marcela me dirá, después, que su padre, un militante comunista, le decía que ni soñara con irse a la guerrilla, que eso “no es para muchos y es para machos”. Marcela lleva 31 años en las Farc y ahora ha cambiado el uniforme por camisetas rosas ajustadas, las uñas rosa nacarado, los aros gordos y los dientes tan blancos, pero la gorra militar. Marcela se fue al monte convencida de que en cinco años ganaban la guerra y se volvía a su casa; fue a mediados de los años ochenta.

Y Mireya insistirá en que las Farc siempre se preocuparon por la igualdad entre hombres y mujeres y, sobre todo, por que no hubiera abusos.

—Nosotros no permitimos esas cosas. Es muy complicado: venimos de una sociedad patriarcal, marcadamente machista, pero en nuestra organización siempre tuvimos mucho cuidado con esas cosas. Yo, como mujer, no puedo tolerar que a una chica la violen. Hubo casos hace años, y el chico… se fusilaba, y ya.

Dice, y alza las cejas y las palmas de las manos: se fusilaba y ya. Yo le pregunto si el castigo era igual cuando violaba a una guerrillera o a una campesina.

—Igual. Si era una compañera, más todavía. Una compañera es más difícil, porque es una combatiente, está armada, se defiende. Así que era más común con alguna chica de la comunidad…

—¿Fusilarlos no es demasiado?

—No teníamos cárceles. ¿Qué hacíamos, dónde los metíamos? Y además eso estaba escrito en nuestros estatutos, y todos lo tenían muy claro.

Me dice, y que la pelea contra el patriarcado es una de sus preocupaciones principales. Los jefes actuales de las Farc —los integrantes de su Secretariado— son seis hombres. Y sus predecesores fueron hombres, todos.

El eslogan, ahora, campea en todos los carteles: “Nuestra única arma es la palabra”, dice, para decir que ya no usarán las que solían. Y que, de ahora en más, buscarán formas distintas de conseguir las mismas metas.

—Las armas nunca fueron lo más importante. Eran una herramienta, una manera…

El discurso parece unificado y varios me lo ofrecen, con variaciones mínimas: que las armas eran un medio que no tuvieron más remedio que usar —ante las violencias del Estado— para seguir buscando la transformación del sistema, porque ellos nunca dejaron de ser comunistas guiados por Marx, Lenin y el pensamiento bolivariano, y que para conseguirla hay otros medios y que eso es lo que están empezando a trabajar ahora.

Un arma con una etiqueta de la ONU en una de las zonas veredales de normalización en Colombia, el 14 de junio de 2017 CreditRaúl Arboleda/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
Un arma con una etiqueta de la ONU en una de las zonas veredales de normalización en Colombia, el 14 de junio de 2017 CreditRaúl Arboleda/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Y saben que dejar las armas les restará poder, presión, presencia, pero esperan que les dé la posibilidad de buscar alianzas mucho más amplias, de llegar a sectores y personas que repudiaban su violencia. Pero que para eso, dicen, es necesario que se democratice el acceso a la política, que sirva para buscar la justicia, la equidad, la tolerancia. Y que van a hacer un gran congreso ahora en agosto para discutir y definir lo que harán de ahora en más. Y que realmente funcionan por consenso y no por imposiciones de los jefes. Xiomara será una de las delegadas al congreso y le preocupan, ahora, ciertas reacciones:

—En muchas zonas las comunidades están desilusionadas porque nos vamos. Nos dicen: “Cómo nos van a abandonar, qué va a ser de nosotros. Nosotros siempre los ayudamos y ahora ustedes se van”…

En estos meses, las Farc no solo dejaron las armas; también perdieron peso en esos territorios donde tenían una presencia fuerte gracias a esas armas. Y muchos habitantes se quejan de que ahora hay más delincuentes, más matanzas, más “paracos”.

—Nosotros los ayudábamos a mantener el orden. Ahora lo tendría que hacer el gobierno, en los acuerdos se comprometieron a eso. Pero cómo vamos a creer que el gobierno nos va a cuidar si siempre nos maltrataron, si siempre maltrataron a los pobres…

El acuerdo de paz también prevé medidas sociales, económicas, políticas. Una de las más notorias es la erradicación de los cultivos de coca: en muchos casos funcionaban en zonas controladas por las FARC, que ganaban mucha plata cobrando un “impuesto” a los narcotraficantes. El Estado quiere eliminarlos: para eso sus agentes ordenan a los campesinos que se deshagan de sus matas y les prometen, a cambio, plata para empezar otros cultivos. Pero el dinero no llega: los campesinos se están quedando, dirá después Mireya, sin mata ni plata, y se alborotan.

La paz es la rutina. A las seis de la tarde, cuando el calor cede, los exvuelven a la cocina en busca de su cena: arroz con papas, aguacate, huevos. La comida en el Purgatorio es abundante y consabida. Algunos dicen que mañana domingo podría haber pescado, pero no es seguro. Algunos están aprendiendo la duda; Diego prefiere no saberla. Le pregunto cómo imagina su vida dentro de diez años y me habla de Colombia: que va a ser otra, dice, que ya no la va a gobernar una minoría sino la mayoría. Le pregunto cómo lo van a conseguir.

—A través de la lucha. Si no peleamos no va a pasar nada, pero si todo el pueblo se pone a reclamar…

—¿Y te parece que eso va a suceder?

—Sí, claro, claro que sí. No me parece, estoy seguro.

Por ahora los chicos corretean y berrean, sus madres los corren y les gritan, los perros corren y se ladran, unos cuantos muchachos divididos corretean más allá, en el descampado, detrás de una pelota. Luna feroz ataca a un perro vagabundo y el perro gime y varios temen que lo mate, los separan.

Una integrante de las Farc escribe una carta en una de las zonas transitorias de normalización antes de la entrega total de las armas. CreditRaúl Arboleda/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
Una integrante de las Farc escribe una carta en una de las zonas transitorias de normalización antes de la entrega total de las armas. CreditRaúl Arboleda/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Pronto se hará de noche; la mayoría se irá a dormir temprano. A las ocho ya es raro cruzarse a alguien entre los barracones, en los pasillos embarrados: está oscuro, bochinche de las radios, los ex descansan o se aburren. Níder, en cambio, parece que no parara nunca. Níder es paisa y está a cargo de la “reincorporación económica y política” de los ex de aquí. Níder tiene la cara abierta, la panza bien provista, una sonrisa sólida, y ha pasado mucho tiempo en puestos administrativos. Níder habla con la solvencia satisfecha de un político:

—La mayoría de los guerrilleros son pobres, de familias pobres, o sea que hay que garantizarles el trabajo, la educación, la vivienda, la salud, la recreación. Porque si no se cubren esos derechos mínimos de las personas va a haber mucha deserción del personal: deserción hacia otros grupos armados, hacia el vandalismo.

Ahí está el interés del Estado: ayudar a esa reinserción para evitar que miles de soldados retomen la guerra en otras bandas menos previsibles. Ahí está el interés de las Farc: demostrar que pueden crear un modelo social y económico diferente que funcione y, sobre todo, mantener a sus hombres organizados trabajando en esos territorios que antes ocupaban con las armas, y que la paz los obligó a dejar.

—Para eso ayer mismo se constituyó en Bogotá una empresa que se llama Ecomún, una empresa con todos los requisitos legales.

Dice, y que, según los acuerdos, cada guerrillero va a recibir ocho millones de pesos —unos 2.500 dólares— para empezar su nueva vida. Muchos de ellos han aceptado, dice Níder, la propuesta de las FARC de poner el dinero en común y usarlo para lanzar una serie de emprendimientos más o menos cooperativos.

—Nosotros le apuntamos a que cada guerrillero invierta su capital en esto.

Dice, y no le digo que hay palabras que se chocan: inversión, capital, guerrillero. Níder sigue:

—Porque si se hace de manera individual, ocho millones no alcanzan para nada. Pero si nos juntamos, la fuerza es otra. Acá somos más de 400, así que podríamos disponer de unos 3.500 millones de pesos, más de un millón de dólares.

Así, los guerrilleros serían socios y empleados de la empresa, que les aseguraría su supervivencia, su salud, una vivienda. Y esa vida en común que muchos tienen tanto miedo de perder. Así, en cada zona veredal una asamblea de exguerrilleros deberá decidir qué proyectos adoptan. Níder propone emprendimientos agrarios con valor agregado: un principio de industrialización, dice, del campo. Y una manera, insiste, de “mostrarle al mundo que podemos armar un sistema económico más equitativo y más humano”. Para eso, dice Níder, la paz es decisiva.

Hoy es domingo: hay visitantes. Gentes de la región llegan hasta Los Monos por distintas razones: a ver cómo es, a preguntar algo preciso, a buscar cosas.

—Acá siempre hay gente que viene a preguntar cómo sigue el proceso.

Me dirá Jerson, que está de guardia en la recepción del campamento.

—¿Y tú qué les contestas?

—No, pues, que esperen al encargado. Siempre hay, para cada cosa, un encargado. Yo para qué me voy a meter, pues.

Dos mujeres esperan bajo el sol a su encargado. Omayra y Ana Tulia son chiquitas, cobrizas, arrugadas: preguntan por sus hijos. Los dos tenían menos de 20 cuando se fueron, dos años atrás, a la guerrilla. Ellas los buscan desde entonces; cuando empezó la paz se ilusionaron, pero ya fueron a varios campamentos y no encontraron nada. Ahora quieren hablar con Xiomara, que maneja una base de datos que podría ayudarlas. El problema es que los guerrilleros —las “unidades”, dicen en farqués— figuran con su nombre de guerra y ellas, por supuesto, no saben los que usaban sus hijos. Sí saben la fecha en que se fueron, y creen que con eso quizá consigan algo.

—No sé qué vamos a hacer si nadie nos puede decir qué fue de nuestros hijos. Yo le pido mucho a Dios que mi hijo ande, porque es el único que tengo. Son cuatro mujeres y él es el único varón, mi único hijo.

Doña Omayra mide un metro y medio y fue una autoridad de su resguardo nasa; sabe que es mal signo que su hijo no la haya llamado, que no haya aparecido, pero cuenta que hace tiempo una sobrina suya también se fue p’al monte y que estuvo ocho años sin dar razón y que cuando todos creían que se había muerto y la lloraban ella se apareció, tan viva como usted y como yo, y que por eso mantiene la esperanza. Por eso y porque ella cree mucho en Dios, me dice, se le arrodilla mucho.

—A ver si hoy me hace el milagro.

Ella también está en el Purgatorio. Junto con muchos miles: Mireya, más tarde, me dirá que pronto subirá a Bogotá para integrarse a la UPBD, la Unidad de Búsqueda de Personas Desaparecidas, una oficina que intenta saber qué pasó con esas personas de las que nunca más se supo. Será un intento de cerrar sus historias, de tener una historia que contar a sus familias. Y será, para ella, un intento de reconciliarse con su vida: en 1988, cuando tenía 18 años, los paramilitares desaparecieron a su novio, militante de la Unión Patriótica; poco después mataron a su padre. Entonces Mireya decidió irse a la guerrilla; años más tarde, su hermana, también guerrillera, desapareció en un combate.

Imagen de un par de botas pertenecientes a un guerrillero de las FARC convertidas en planteras como símbolo de la paz y expuestas durante un evento de la sociedad civil en Cali, Valle del Cauca, Colombia, el 27 de junio de 2017, en apoyo del desarme completo de las FARC. CreditLuis Robayo/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images
Imagen de un par de botas pertenecientes a un guerrillero de las FARC convertidas en planteras como símbolo de la paz y expuestas durante un evento de la sociedad civil en Cali, Valle del Cauca, Colombia, el 27 de junio de 2017, en apoyo del desarme completo de las FARC. CreditLuis Robayo/Agence France-Presse — Getty Images

Es una, hay tantos; en Colombia quedan tantas heridas por cerrar, tantos futuros por armar o desarmar. Aquel domingo, cuando salí del campamento, escuché que Rodrigo Londoño, Timochenko, el jefe de las FARC, había sufrido un ACV mientras visitaba otra zona veredal. Lo internaron, la noticia fluyó, se hizo viral; esa tarde, en las redes, se convocaban cadenas de oración para pedir su restablecimiento. Muchas cosas cambiaron en Colombia últimamente; muchas no.

Hay, ahora, siete mil soldados menos; hay, ahora, siete mil exsoldados que no saben qué va a ser de sus vidas: que ni siquiera están seguros de que su guerra se haya terminado. Hay, alrededor, millones y millones que lo esperan. Hay, también, los que querrían que no. La paz, a veces, es una guerra más confusa.

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