Por Marcos Fabián Herrera. (Tomado de Revista Diners).
La tarde en la que el pico glacial del volcán Nevado del Huila se asomó entre las montañas bañadas de bruma, Karl Kohlsdorf sintió una conexión con el paisaje que le hizo pensar que el magnetismo que experimentaba equivalía a la creación de un vínculo sagrado con esa tierra.
Después de varias semanas de recorrer a lomo de mula los senderos de herradura de la cordillera Central, en un atardecer contempló el paraje. La misión que cumplía como expedicionario encargado de desbrozar el camino para abrir luego una arteria terrestre que conectara al Huila con el Cauca, le deparaba una revelación
Como curtido viajero, vivía con una sed de aventura que solo se calmaba cuando abría los mapas y marcaba un nuevo destino. Esta vocación de trashumante lo llevó muy joven al África tropical y lo traería a Colombia en la primera década del siglo XX.
Convencido de su destino filantrópico y de la necesidad de tecnificar la agricultura en latitudes exóticas, su llegada a la Universidad Nacional de Colombia como docente del cultivo de cacao animaría a muchos labriegos a probar en sus terrenos plantaciones de este árbol.
La travesía
Lo que nunca sospechó Karl Kohlsdorf cuando se situó en la franja de tierra que los caudales de los ríos La Plata y Moscopán forman entre sus riberas, es que la selva virgen de los Andes colombianos que vislumbraba desde el lomo de su bestia, traería una prolongada pausa a su incesante itinerario de nómada.
La zona que recorría en su improvisada campaña de exploración era el “Potrero del Medio”, un triángulo de vegetación tupida custodiado por el páramo que desde la Independencia figuraba como propiedad del militar, expresidente de la República y promotor del federalismo, Tomás Cipriano de Mosquera. Cuarenta años después de fallecido el político payanejo, un alemán ambicionaba la posesión de estos predios. El anhelo se haría realidad.
A su regreso a Bogotá, y con el convencimiento de construir en la región un refugio forestal para escapar de la ruidosa capital colombiana, les propuso a varias familias alemanas crear un fondo común para adquirir una amplia zona de las tierras limítrofes entre los dos departamentos.
Regresaría con su esposa Elfriede Oertel, por el mismo camino escarpado y boscoso, para bautizar ese paraje con el nombre de Merenberg. Este vocablo germánico, que significa Mar de Montañas, se convertiría con el paso de los años en la denominación del más valiente ejemplo de conservación ambiental.
La sola mención de esta palabra remite a la historia de una familia que durante tres generaciones, con ejemplar obstinación, se ha dedicado a la protección de un lugar que en los Andes colombianos atesora un bastión natural y representa para comunidades científicas del mundo entero un destino ecológico que ha adquirido una dimensión sagrada.
La llegada de Günther
En la mañana del 10 de diciembre de 1948, en el aeropuerto de Techo de Santafé de Bogotá, Günther Büch y Mechthild Kohlsdorf aterrizaron en un vuelo proveniente de Frankfurt, que había tenido escalas en las ciudades de Miami, La Habana y Kingston. Un extenuante trayecto logrado gracias a las persistentes gestiones consulares.
La prevención extendida en todo el hemisferio occidental a los emigrantes alemanes, y el férreo control que se aplicaba a los exiliados europeos en los países aliados de Estados Unidos, había retrasado el viaje. En varias ocasiones creyeron que la partida se malograba. Dotados de paciencia, y gracias al oficio de intérprete que ejercía Günther en la ciudad de Hamburgo, lograron los permisos para iniciar el éxodo.
Esta pareja de esposos se había conocido cuatro años atrás en la ciudad de Borna, estado federado de Sajonia. Mientras las tropas alemanas resistían el embate de las fuerzas aliadas, en el hospital de la ciudad, el soldado Büch recibía atenciones médicas de Mechthild Kohlsdorf luego de caer herido en combate.
Esta mujer le relató, en su etapa de convalecencia, los instantes de dicha que se vivían en un paraje bucólico al otro lado del océano.
Desconocido país del trópico
Dispuesto a rehacerse lejos de la situación convulsa que se vivía en la Europa de la posguerra, Günther, seducido por la posibilidad de contribuir a la labor quimérica iniciada por Karl Kohlsdorf, llegó a un desconocido país del trópico.
Nueve meses antes, en Bogotá, la ira popular desatada por el asesinato del caudillo liberal Jorge Eliécer Gaitán envolvía en llamas la ciudad y avivaba una dilatada confrontación política en los pueblos y campos de Colombia. La segunda mitad del siglo XX se iniciaba con un magnicidio que traería prolongadas repercusiones en la historia nacional.
En las siguientes cinco décadas, Günther Büch, con una devoción franciscana y sorteando limitaciones y adversidades, protagonizaría una silenciosa y admirable labor de defensa de los bosques andinos, mientras el país resistía los avatares de una guerra interna.
La muerte de Mechthild
El asedio de los colonos que invadían los predios y la inconsciencia de los pobladores que depredaban sin control alguno fue la primera situación que padecieron Günther y Mechthild, después del emotivo arribo aquel diciembre. El viejo portón de madera que marca la ruta de acceso a la reserva se abrió para recibir a quienes fungirían como custodios de un patrimonio natural de 348 hectáreas.
El fallecimiento de Karl en 1947 provocó en Elfriede, la madre de Mechthild, un estado de desolación que encontraría en el arrojo y vitalidad de Günther su cura.
Muchas situaciones conflictivas pusieron a prueba la serenidad de la recién llegada pareja de esposos. Así lo testimonia uno de los apartados del diario que Günther escribía.
En él consigna la explicación que les dio a unos cazadores sorprendidos con dantas y venados de monte sacrificados en predios de Merenberg:
“La creación comprende no solo al hombre, sino a todas las formas de la vida. Cada animal y cada planta revela un misterio grandioso y único. Cuando el hombre destruye el último representante, esa especie nunca, nunca va a retornar a la vida. Aquí en Merenberg intentamos construir algo semejante al arca de Noé, donde sobrevivieron las especies durante el último diluvio. Queremos fundar un refugio para las últimas especies de esta región. Pero sin la colaboración de todos ustedes no podremos salvarlas”.
Ejemplo mundial de ecología
La verticalidad en la defensa de la naturaleza, y la negativa de Günther a transigir con las prácticas depredadoras de los lugareños, ocasionó una tragedia que les tomaría mucho tiempo superar a él y sus hijos.
El 7 de marzo de 1975, mientras Günther se aprovisionaba de alimentos en el caserío de Belén, un cazador que libraba un litigio jurídico con la reserva tendió una emboscada a Mechthild. Con escopetazos llamó su atención para luego asesinarla.
Sobreponiéndose a la pérdida más dolorosa de sus vidas, Günther y sus hijos Dietlind, Gerfried y Svanhild emprenderían una nueva etapa en su labor conservacionista después de la muerte de su esposa y madre. Empeñados en la aplicación de justicia para el asesino, y como si el esfuerzo de años por vencer la incomprensión fuera compensado por el afecto de los nativos, el crimen de Mechthild no quedó impune.
Muchos vecinos rodearon a Günther y sus hijos, y entidades como el cuerpo de paz del gobierno norteamericano y la WWF (World Wildlife Fund) se afincarían en Merenberg con voluntarios e investigadores.
La infatigable labor de más cuarenta años de Günther lo convirtió en un ejemplo mundial de ecología y uno de los conservacionistas más emblemáticos del país. En su reserva han hecho presencia centros de investigación y universidades del mundo entero, y es hoy un lugar de peregrinaje para zoólogos, biólogos, ambientalistas y científicos que escudriñan con pasión la riqueza arbórea y faunística de la reserva.
Variedad natural
En la reserva se han identificado 293 plantas, 6 de ellas especies endémicas; existen 67 líquenes, 32 musgos y 86 especies de invertebrados. El ave tapaculo del Magdalena, endémica de la reserva ambiental, tiene un rango de vuelo en todo el páramo del Puracé y aparece junto a 664 especies más en Birds of Colombia, de Steven Hilty.
La revisión documental en bases de datos evidencia que la reserva ha sido objeto de estudio en 39 publicaciones, entre libros y artículos científicos de más de 12 universidades americanas y europeas. Más de 20 nombres científicos son epónimos y variaciones del nombre de pila del fundador Günther Büch. La reserva, que aspira a convertirse en un centro de investigación científica, hoy es liderada por Svanhild Büch.
Ella es la responsable de coordinar las misiones investigativas que generan un promedio anual de dos mil turistas académicos provenientes de universidades norteamericanas, europeas y latinoamericanas. “La familia ha decidido convertir la reserva en un espacio que albergue a investigadores de todas las disciplinas. Creemos que así aseguramos la continuidad de la labor iniciada por nuestros abuelos. Por eso Merenberg es el lugar que representa a la familia planetaria de ecologistas interesados en la conservación de los bosques”, explica Svanhild.
Esta mujer, cuyas facciones caucásicas y anteojos con leontina rememoran los retratos de su madre, reside en Cali. Es la única heredera que vive en el país. Sus hermanos, miembros de la tercera generación de la familia, están residenciados en Alemania.
Cuidado de la reserva
Con una asombrosa versatilidad y un derroche de energía que le permite conjugar su oficio de traductora con la coordinación de las labores que se derivan del cuidado y divulgación de la reserva, explica el valor del lugar que para su familia simboliza un tesoro forjado por décadas.
“Además de las visitas de científicos, promovemos un componente de educación ambiental. Estudiantes de colegios y escuelas pueden visitar la reserva para aprender principios básicos de la biología y sorprenderse con especies animales que en un centro urbano nunca lograrán contemplar. Al ser una zona de amortiguación del páramo de Puracé, nuestros bosques sirven de corredor biológico para especies como la danta y el oso de anteojos. Ellos volvieron, después de años de cacería amenazante para la supervivencia como especies”.
Como si la ambición bíblica de reunir todas las especies animales y vegetales en el arca de Noé fuera también un mandato para Merenberg, el avistamiento de aves es desde hace diez años una actividad que atrae a fotógrafos y ornitólogos de Colombia y Latinoamérica.
Global Big Day
Conocido en el mundo como el Global Big Day, y creado por el Laboratorio de Ornitología de la Universidad Cornell, cada 8 de mayo, en las zonas adyacentes a los jardines de Merenberg, se instalan trípodes para cámaras, binoculares y grabadores de audio que captan los registros visuales y sonoros de aves como el colibrí de gargantilla y la cotorra montañera. Gorjeos y cantos, y el exotismo de los plumajes más variopintos se guardan en archivos que luego contribuyen a la caracterización de las especies.
Por la cantidad de aves migratorias y nativas que sobrevuelan la reserva, hoy es una de las coordenadas privilegiadas para el avistamiento de aves en el país.
Un bosque de cedros vigila un costado de la casa de madera construida por Karl Kohlsdorf. Cuando se camina por el sendero cubierto de hojarasca que se abre paso entre los árboles, la luz solar que se filtra entre el follaje ilumina la ruta de los paseantes. En el centro de la floresta, como un efluvio ancestral que emana de la tierra, se vive la sensación de respirar el aire más limpio del planeta. Al contemplar las cruces de las tumbas de Karl, Elfriede y Mechthild, se escuchan los primeros chillidos de los monos aulladores, que al percibir la presencia de los humanos se solazan con peripecias en las alturas del ramaje. Celebran el esfuerzo por proteger la vida en un mundo empeñado en exterminarla.
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